I’m sitting in my salon and a new client came walking in and asked me a really great question. She had been suffering from a dry scalp and needed some help. She asked, how do I remove seborrheic dermatitis at home? 

To remove seborrheic dermatitis you will need to use a medicated shampoo. Ketoconazole shampoo is an antifungal medication used to treat infections on the scalp. Ketoconazole 2% shampoo should be used on the affected area 1-2 times a week. 

What Is Seborrheic Dermatitis

Seborrheic dermatitis is also called dandruff, eczema and psoriasis of the scalp. In infants, seborrheic dermatitis is commonly known as cradle cap. This causes a crusty, scaly, and itchy patch to develop on the scalp. Seborrheic dermatitis is a common skin condition that mainly affects your scalp. It can however be found in other areas of the body. It can appear as red skin and stubborn dandruff. Seborrheic dermatitis can also affect oily areas such as the face, sides of the nose, eyebrows, ears, eyelids and chest.

Dermatitis can go away without treatment however, on the scalp it is more likely you will need to address and treat the problem. You may need many repeated treatments before the symptoms go away completely. The best treatment so far has been using ketoconazole shampoo. 

How to use Ketoconazole Shampoo

Ketoconazole shampoo should be used every time you wash your hair. You will have to get a prescription from your doctor in order to use Ketoconazole shampoo in 2%. because this is a prescription shampoo. I will also give you over the counter options later in this post.  Because I work with clients who have curly and kinky textured hair this usually amounts to once or twice every two weeks. So depending on your hair texture that will determine how often you use the shampoo. 

From my experience, I like to use the first leather with my normal shampoo. This can be a clarifying shampoo to remove product build-up or it could be a shampoo that is designed for color or chemically treated hair. Typically I use Ketoconazole shampoo on the second ladder. Again this is after I have removed products and dirt from the hair. I applied shampoo to the hair working it through from the roots to the ends. then I let the shampoo remain on the scalp for 3-5 minutes.  I rinse with cool water and apply a conditioner. Depending on the severity of the client’s seborrheic dermatitis I will then use a scalp oil to soothe the scalp and to prevent a recurrence of dermatitis. 

Before And After Treatment

I wanted to share with you some before and after photos of one of my recent clients who suffer from seborrheic dermatitis. I know these images may be triggering to some however, I want to give you hope that removing seborrheic dermatitis can be done. Even in cases like this where the scalp is completely covered and overgrowth has begun. Again, this is a severe case and this client required a pre scalp treatment before applying shampoo to the scalp. 

These first few photos are after I removed the previous hairstyle which was braids. After removing the braids you can see the scalp is barely visible. 

If you noticed from the photos they have quite a bit of scaly patches on the skin. The overgrowth of bacteria on the skin causes the hair to lay flat on the scalp and causes large scaly patches throughout.

 With this client, in particular, she required a light oil to the scalp to help loosen seborrheic dermatitis in order for me to remove it completely from the scalp. Once I  thoroughly sectioned her hair I used a clarifying shampoo to remove the oil that was used and then I followed the steps I mentioned previously. This includes two shampoos using Ketoconazole shampoo 2%.  As you can see from the following photo her scalp is now visible and is healthy pink and free of seborrheic dermatitis. 

This next step is optional but highly recommended for ALL HAIR TYPES. I apply a hydrating conditioner to the hair avoiding the scalp area. Remember the pores are open and I do not want to apply any products to clog the pores which will result in an overproduction of the seborrheic gland. This is the gland that produces natural oils on the scalp. Once the conditioner has been applied, I allow it to sit on the hair for 15 to 20 minutes then I proceed by rinsing the conditioner out with cool water. Read my tips below for tips on product usage. 

Over The Counter Options

Ketoconazole shampoo is not the only option when removing seborrheic dermatitis from the scalp. From my experience, this has been the number one option so this is why I highly recommended it. You have other brands of shampoo, antifungal creams, as well as pills to help remove seborrheic dermatitis. Some of these options do have side effects such as thinning of the skin and streak and lines appearing on the scalp.

This is the reason I prefer to use shampoo because it carries a lower risk of both of these side effects and is easy to apply. Antifungal creams and lotions aren’t suited to be applied to all the hair textures daily. I can speak for my clientele personally when I say curly and textured hair does not do well with applied creams and daily scalp serums. They often leave a residue on the hair and dry out curlier textured strands. 

If you do not have access to a prescription for Ketoconazole shampoo I would like to recommend a few over the counter products that I believe will work effectively. I have used these shampoos with great success and they are readily available. Check your local drug store and ask your pharmacist for more information on products that contain the following ingredients. 

• Tar Shampoo –TGel
• Salicylic Acid- Neutrogena TSal
• Selenium Sulfide- Selsun Blue
• Ketoconazole- Nizoral

Additional Treatments To Remove Seborrheic Dermatitis

Depending on how mild your seborrheic dermatitis maybe there are other shampoos that have active ingredients to help fight dry and itchy scalp.  I will also list these shampoos as well. The following are shampoos I use daily in my business and on myself. You may notice when the seasons change your skin and scalp start to get dry and flaky. These shampoos help to soothe the scalp. 

1. Design Essentials
2. Kera Care
3. Paul Mitchel Tea Tree
4. As I Am

Along with these shampoos, there are other over-the-counter products to help remove seborrheic dermatitis. Also, you can find treatments to use prior to your shampoo to help alleviate dry and Flaky scalp as well as treat seborrheic dermatitis. I know firsthand that these products work well when used in conjunction with a hairdryer or a heated scalp cap. if you are not receiving these treatments in a salon setting you can also purchase hooded dryers to use at home to make these treatments more effective. I highly recommend using a hooded dryer when applying products to the scalp as you need to open your pores for these products to work properly. Below I will list the scalp treatments that I have used in the past and currently on my clients to help treat seborrheic dermatitis prior to a shampoo service.

1. Design Essentials-Scalp & Skin Care Detoxifying Tonic
2. Mizani- Calming Scalp Lotion 
3. Shea Moisture-  Charcoal Scalp Tonic
4. Paul Mitchell- Tea Tree Scalp Treatment
5. Ion- Healthy Scalp Exfoliating Scrub

 Natural Remedies

When my daughter started to experience a mild case of dermatitis on her scalp. It was decided to use products that were medicated because of her age and hair type. I wanted to remove the flakes from her scalp and help to soothe the itchiness. She often scratches her scalp to the point she creates scabs. One of the things I decided to do was create an aloe vera gel. I knew that if I applied it to her scalp it would help to heal the skin, alleviate the itchiness, and help to remove dandruff.

In this video tutorial, I will show you how I create this aloe vera gel. This is also a great product to use when detangling textured hair. If you have small children like myself this will make wash day so much simpler. Because there will be no tears from the tangling and the product feels great on the scalp.

What NOT To Do.

When you have dermatitis there are a few things that you should not do when trying to heal the scalp. My number one recommendation would be to stop the usage of any product that has alcohol in its ingredients. Alcohol tends to dry out the scalp and cause irritation to inflamed skin. This will include hair sprays, hair gels, some brands of hair color, and other styling products. I also no chemical treatments. This includes hair color, relaxers, or perms.

Here’s A Tip: If the first ingredient is alcohol throw the product in the trash immediately. Even if you do not have seborrheic dermatitis alcohol as the key ingredient is not good for the hair. 

I hope that this post helps you find ways to remove your Seborrheic dermatitis. If you follow the steps I mentioned above I’m confident that you will see results after your first hair wash. Also using the products I mentioned above. I would love for you to leave your feedback below. If you are looking for more hair care tips I will also leave more resources below. 

The Best Shampoos For Natural Hair|10 Reasons Your Edges Are Thinning and Breaking|How To Make Rice Water

Natural hair is beautiful. That’s it. That’s the post. Ok but seriously, natural hair is such a sight to see as so many more Black and Latino women embrace their curly kinky strands. One of the challenges will “going natural” is finding the right products. I will be starting a series here on the blog to help you find the best products for natural hair. In today’s post, we will be discussing the best shampoos for 4C hair. 

This is not to say these products cant be used on every texture of natural hair. I’m simply stating that since 4C hair usually needs a bit more moisture. So my desire to talk about shampoos for 4C hair is to cover most hair types. 4C hair is made up of tightly coiled hair strands with a tight zig-zag pattern. Type 4C hair has no defined curl pattern however, it can be defined by twisting or braiding the strands. In my professional opinion, it is the most fragile hair type. As they say, “shrinkage is real” because this texture of hair is more prone to shrinkage and dryness.

What must shampoos for natural 4C hair do?

Shampoos for 4C hair must retain moisture levels in the hair. They must also refrain from stripping the natural oils from the hair while cleansing. So with that in mind, I compiled a list of shampoos I use professionally and personally on my clients and my hair. As I stated earlier, these shampoos are not ONLY recommended for 4C hair. If your hair is in need of a hydrating and conditioning cleanse these shampoos are for you. 

Shea Moisture Jamaican Castor Oil Shampoo

Amika Triple Rx Shampoo

Creme of Nature Argan Oil Moisture & Shine Shampoo

Design Essentials Honey Creme Moisture Retention Shampoo

Mielle Mongongo Oil Exfoliating Shampoo

Aphogee Shampoo

KeraCare Hydrating Detangling Shampoo

Camille Rose Sweet Ginger Cleansing Rins

Supreme Oil Shampoo

Aussie Mega Moist Shampoo

In a previous post HERE I shared my number tip to finding the best shampoo not only for your hair but for your scalp. His is how I find shampoos that won’t irritate my scalp and how I compiled this list. If you want to learn how I deep condition and steam my hair at home this video tutorial is also a must-watch HERE.

Next Up: Best Deep Conditioners and Hair Mask For Natural Hair

Why are my edges thinning and breaking? How can I regrow my edges? If I had a dollar for the number of times I get these questions each day I would be a thousandaire lol. Seriously, I either get this question from new salon clients and or subscribers from my Youtube channel daily. I figured it was time to get tell it like it is. A little about me for those of you who may be new here. I’ve been a licensed cosmetologist for well over 18 years. Wow, I can’t believe I just wrote that. Am I telling my age lol? As such, I have quite a history of dealing with thinning edges as a professional and woman who has had children. I will touch more on that later on in this post. 

Thinning edges is a form of traction alopecia. 

Traction alopecia is hair loss that’s caused by constant pulling and twisting of the hair. You can develop traction alopecia if you often wear your hair in tight ponytails, braids, weaves, and especially if you use excessive chemicals or heat on your hair. Traction alopecia is the number one cause for edges thinning and breaking.

As a cosmetologist, I have a straightforward approach. I will tell you how and why then offer you solutions to fix the problem. This is what we will be doing in today’s post. I will give you some of the most common reasons for thinning edges. 

Let’s start with some good news first.

Can I Regrow My Thinning Edges

 Many of the reasons why your edges are thinning is because of things within your control. Yes, you read that right, YOU are the problem, ma’am. Secondly, health issues such as hormonal imbalances and pregnancy can be reversed to regrow the hair. Lastly, it happens to the best of us. I myself have had to deal with thinning edges and regrowing my hair back after doing my hair too tightly and after hair loss due to pregnancy. 

So I know the struggle all too well. You are not alone. 

In many cases, YES. You can regrow your thinning and breaking edges. It will take a little bit of work and a ton of consistency but it can happen. Below I will share my secret ingredient to regrowing your edges. Keep reading.

10 Reasons Why Your  Edges Are Thinning and Breaking

• Over manipulation
• Tight hairstyles
• Lack of moisture
• Wrong Products
• Stress and hormones
• Dirty styling tools
• Your Diet 
• Bonnets and Scarves
• Excessive heat styling
• Attending YouTube University… CHILE

Now of course there are many other factors which can lead to thinning edges and balding. This post will deal with the most common factors. 

Let’s find out why you are experiencing this and get you on the fast track to healthy hair. 

Over Manipulation

 The stress of consistent pulling, twisting, braiding of the hair causes edges to thin. I may sound like a broken record here but less is more. I know social media has given us a bit more reasons to restyle and change up our look. We need new pictures for Instagram right? But I would advise you to change up your outfit more than your hairstyle. You do NOT need a new hairstyle every other week. Over manipulation of the hair causes strain on your precious strands and can lead to unnecessary breakage. Again, less is more. This leads me to our next topic. 

Tight Hairstyles

 In the beginning stages of my career, I was under the impression that styling the hair tightly would give the client more usage and long term wear of the style. WRONG! The same applies to you. Do not for a second believe that tight equals right. So those micro braids and tight sew-ins are a thing of the past. We want to prevent our edges from thinning and breaking. If you need to take pain medicine before or after a hair appointment please find another stylist. Tight hairstyles are the leading cause overall breakage within the hair. This is why traction alopecia is so common in the African American community. 

Let your scalp breathe

 Not all protective styles are created equal. Of course, we have braids, twists, weaves, and wigs. If not done properly they do more harm than good. As it relates to your scalp, lace front wigs are all the rave right now. They allow you to get a realistic look without any heat styling to the natural hair. Here’s the problem. To apply your lace wigs you must use some form of adhesive. It can be the gel and hairspray technique (SHOWN HERE) or the lace glue method. In an attempt to protect your hair from manipulation one can wear wigs and weave for too long. This doesn’t allow the scalp to breathe and the hairline usually experiences the damage first. The product build-up and lack of cleansing cause bacteria to form and will destroy your hairline. Thus leading to thin and balding edges.

Most people believe their hair with an itchy and flaky scalp when in fact they have an overgrowth of bacteria forming. Seek out a licensed stylist or medical professional to learn the difference. They will be sure to help you stop your hair and edges from thinning and breaking.

While on this topic. A consistent wash day schedule and routine would do wonders for a healthy scalp. As I said, I can talk about this until I’m blue in the face lol. 

Product Selection 

As much as I am a stickler for weekly or bi-weekly wash days for textured hair. The products used are just as important. Since we are discussing thinning edges we need to focus on products that provide moisture to the hair as well as stimulate the hair follicles for continued scalp growth and cell turnover. I will create a later post talking about hair oils I recommend for regrowing the scalp. But for now, I want you to do this. 

Go into your current stash of hair products. Look for oils that contain castor oil and Vitamin D or E. If your hair oils have one or all of these ingredients you can continue to use them. One of my favorite ingredients for regrowing edges is pure Jamaican black castor oil. This is a sure way to stop edges from thinning and breaking. I also have a video tutorial on how I used rice water to strengthen my hair, you can view it HERE.

Here are a few of my favorites. Here, Here, and Here

Stress and Hormonal imbalance: 

Stress will wreak havoc on your body and your mind. As a salon owner, I too have to find ways to keep stress at bay. Stress is typically indicated by the loss of long strands from the hair. This is also known as shedding. However, the stress of being a woman can be seen around the hairline first. Have you ever seen an M style patch missing from the hairline? That’s hair loss due to stress. INSERT PICTURE. Hormone imbalances are not my area of expertise so I would highly advise you to speak to your health care provider and have your hormone levels tested. Also, a low or overactive thyroid can also cause hair loss and thinning edges. 

Dirty styling tools

Now, this may seem like a given but unsanitary combs and brushes is another cause of your edges thinning and breaking. Listen, I learned how to do hair in the inner city when there was one comb for the entire house, and to be honest, I don’t ever remember seeing it being cleaned. Now let’s go even further, before I owned my salon I worked in salons that did not check for proper sanitation practices. If you knew some of the things I’ve seen over the years, YUCK.
With this, please make sure you keep your combs and brush clean and sanitary. When I say clean your hairbrushes that does not mean take the comb and remove the hair lol. I want you to soak your stying tools with soap and warm water. Do not share them with your girlfriends when they come over and make sure they are free of product buildup. Black women can get lice too and if you’ve never seen lice google it. It’s not pretty. 

Diet: 

You are what you eat. If you think you can eat hot Cheetos and diet coke and have long, thick, healthy hair you are wrong. As it relates to thinning edges, a proper diet will encourage cell turnover. This will result in the hair follicle being stimulated to produce new hair growth. Drink your water also. Your hair and skin will thank you for it.

Hair Scarves and Bonnets: 

Your nighttime routine is very important when maintaining healthy hair and your hairstyle. Making sure you apply a scarf or bonnet while you sleep is a great way to protect your hair. Silk and satin materials are best as they provide a smooth surface for the hair to be wrapped in. Remember, cotton absorbs, so any oil in the hair will be absorbed in cotton scarves and pillowcases. This is why you may experience thinning edges. Secondly, make sure your bonnets are not too tight. The elastic inside the bonnet can also cause tension around the hairline. Remember your edges are fragile. You want your bonnet tight enough to stay on all night but not enough to rub your edges away. 

Excessive Heat Styling: 

Now that the hot comb is readily available to everyone I have seen an increase in its usage. A hot comb is a heated tool that straightens the hair and is typically used around the hairline to smooth out the hair for updos and silk press hairstyles. I am all for women learning to maintain their hairstyles at home however like most hot tools, temperature control is key. When using heated hair styling tools one must take preventative measures to make sure they are protecting their hair strands from the heat.

 Excessive heat damage around the hairline will cause thinning and breakage on the edges.  One of the ways to prevent excessive heat damage is to apply a heat protectant to the hair before styling. Additionally, lower the temperature on your styling tools to a medium-low setting. 

Another great way to prevent heat damage while styling is to only use your flat iron and hot combs on your hair strands one to two times per application. That means, your styling tools should only pass through your hair strands once or twice. Do not flat iron that same section of hair four and five times.  Make sure you do not have excessive product build-up when applying heated styling tools to your hair. It will also cause your hair to burn under extreme temperatures which will result in hair breakage and thinning. 

Youtube University: 

I’m going to keep this as short and shade free as I possibly can but girl…

Do you realize anyone can create a Youtube channel? Do you also know that everyone is not qualified to give advice on your hair? Some of your favorite guru’s don’t even have edges and have videos that have gone viral, chile.. Ok, I said I was gonna try and not be petty so let me start over. Listen, sis, do not attend Youtube University. 

This means listening to tips from random people online who are paid by brands to promote products that thin your edges and cause hair loss. Then treating their word like it came from the hair bible. You have to be very particular about which influencers you follow. Now, to be fair, I was on YouTube for years before my subscribers knew I was a professional stylist. Additionally, there are plenty of gurus who have never attended cosmetology school and their information is spot on. When in doubt consult a professional.

All hair textures are not the same. If you follow the hair charts (which I don’t) and it says you are 3C hair type your favorite guru will tell you to use blank product. The issue with this is they don’t know your hair’s ability to retain moisture (porosity) or any underlying scalp issues you may have. What if you have dermatitis or eczema of the scalp? You may not be able to use these products or the product may contain alcohol which can cause your hair to break and thin. See where I’m going with this? Find a credible source and remember to still do your own independent research. 

Here Are A Few More Tips To Prevent Edges From Thinning And Breaking

• Stop using that toothbrush to lay your edges. It’s made for hard teeth, not fragile hairlines.
• How much gel and edge control are you gonna use before you wash your hair? Wash your hair sis.
• DO NOT relax just your hairline. Remember it is the most fragile and chemical processing breaks down the hair structure. 
• Use alcohol-free products on your edges.
• Remove your lace frontal wigs properly.
• Do not apply glue to your hairline. 
• Leave-in conditioners and detanglers are great for the hair, use them often. 
• Apply products to the scalp and rub them in to stimulate blood flow to that area.
• Deep conditioning your hair will restore moisture levels. Deep conditioning is key. 
• Rinse out products properly. If you are rinsing your hair and still see bubbles near the drain KEEP RINSING. This is a telltale sign you still have product left in your hair.
• Also, when you finish washing your hair it should not feel like silk. Soft hair yes, silky No. This is also usually a sign you still have product left in your hair. This is most usual for textured and curly hair types.

Now that you know my top reasons for your edges thinning and balding I want you to create a plan of action to regrow your hair. I will list a few helpful videos below that will help you maintain and grow your hair. Remember, stick to a hair regime and avoid unnecessary styling. You’re beautiful enough already. 

Next Up: Best Shampoos For Natural Hair|20 Deep Conditioners and Hair Mask

 We all know that dark skin is rich with melanin and blessings from God. I am proud of the richness in my skin and thankful for skin kissed by the sun. The problem is the sun is still kissing. I mean, is there such a thing as too much sun? Well, the answer is yes. Too much sun can be harmful to the skin and dark skin is not immune. For many years I, like many others, was under the impression that dark skin was an invisible cap to the sun and would protect me from things such as hyperpigmentation and skin cancer. Let me tell you, I learned the hard way because it would be years before I knew the effects of sun damage to the skin.